THURMOND, W.Va. — Deep in the New River Gorge, the town of Thurmond is arresting in its remote mountain authenticity in a national park. With four full-time residents, it's technically a ghost town, but filmmaker Jillian Howell insists there’s nothing lifeless about the New River.
“Every brick in Thurmond tells a story,” she says. “Whether it’s fact or fiction, the history runs deep—more than 120 years deep.” The effort isn’t just about preserving the past, but showing why Thurmond still matters.
A Wild and Woolly Past
Local lore has it that “the only difference between Hell and Thurmond is that a river runs through Thurmond.” While the quote’s origin is murky, its meaning is clear. Thurmond was once the calm eye of a storm swirling with vice, violence, and excess.
Across the New River in Dun Glen, the Dun Glen Hotel became legendary for its indulgence. “The world’s longest poker game was said to have been played there,” Howell says with a laugh. “Fourteen years straight!”
The Guinness Book of World Records never confirmed it, nor did Ripley’s Believe It or Not!. Still, the legend has survived in print for decades—just one of many tall tales from a region where fact and folklore are nearly indistinguishable.
Modern Lore
What’s often left out of Thurmond’s story is its more recent history. This tiny place played a role in the birth of West Virginia’s whitewater rafting industry. Locals still talk about Fatty Lipscomb’s guesthouse, the once-popular Bankers’ Club, and even a husband-and-wife race for mayor.
And speaking of mayors, in a town of four residents, the position is no small thing—literally 25% of the population. What makes it even more remarkable is that Thurmond still runs its council meetings under the full formality of Robert’s Rules of Order.
“You can’t help but laugh,” Howell says, “but you also can’t help but respect it.”
The People Who Keep It Alive
Despite the ghost-town label, Howell says the real story of Thurmond is about the people. “You can shoot the most beautiful footage of old brick buildings, but it’s the people who make them come alive,” she explains.
The residents welcomed her crew with open arms. They’ve been invited to riverside barbecues, Christmas parties, and even helped out during emergencies. One Memorial Day, when a fallen tree trapped tourists in town, the stranded travelers were quickly invited to join a community picnic.
“People think small West Virginia towns aren’t welcoming to outsiders, but that couldn’t be further from the truth here,” Howell says.
The Landscape and the Loop
Geographically, Thurmond is as unique as its history. The town is essentially one big loop, with a road that curls up the mountain and back down again. The main street isn’t really a street at all—it’s the still-active railroad, complete with an Amtrak stop. Just beyond it, the New River charges past, a roaring reminder of nature’s dominance.
“There is nowhere else on earth quite like it,” Howell says.
Why Thurmond Matters
Thurmond was built on kinship and, some say, a bit of spite. That same stubbornness has kept it alive long after other boomtowns faded. Today, its mix of grit, legend, and charm makes it one of the most celebrated tiny towns in America.
“Hands down, the people are the secret ingredient,” Howell says. “That’s why everyone should visit Thurmond. It’s not just a ghost town—it’s a living story.”
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