CORTLAND, W.Va. — Cross-country skiing is enjoying quite a renaissance. As snow-loving retirees, energetic youths, outdoor enthusiasts, and adventurous families search for quieter ways to explore winter landscapes, more people are looking beyond traditional downhill ski resorts.
Cross-country skiing offers exercise without crowds, immersion in nature without noise, and winter activities that align with a more eco-friendly, mindful lifestyle. And nowhere in West Virginia is this trend more pronounced than at White Grass Ski Touring Center, the Mountain State’s beloved hub for Nordic skiing.
Tucked away into the high-elevation bowl of Canaan Valley in Tucker County, White Grass has long been a magnet for visitors from Columbus, Pittsburgh, and Washington, D.C.
It boasts more than 50 kilometers of groomed and lovingly maintained trails that draw thousands each winter, offering what many seasoned skiers consider some of the best cross-country skiing in the Mid-Atlantic.
Thanks to the region’s distinctive climate, one that regularly receives generous natural snowfall, White Grass enjoys a steady season of powdery days and crisp, cold nights. Every flake that lands is a gift, but keeping the trails ski-ready is intensive work. It’s a labor of love for owner Chip Chase and his team, and it’s a labor that pays off.
“It’s more than just a cross-country ski area; it’s a sanctuary of living the good life,” Chase says. “There’s wonderfully homemade food, a cozy lodge with a wood fire, and a trail system so well taken care of with respect to nature.”
Indeed, White Grass has earned such a reputation that it frequently appears on national lists, including USA Today’s “Best Cross-Country Ski Resorts.” Over the years, it's developed a legendary status as a treasured place in regional winter culture
In two-pole circles, the name “White Grass” conjures up a sense of nostalgia and adventure, a place where skiing feels pure again.
But how did this remote expanse of land, once known mostly for timber operations, weather-beaten homesteads, and cauliflower farms, transform into a Nordic paradise?
A brief history of White Grass
The Canaan Valley has been attracting curious wanderers for centuries, and its stories are as layered as the snowpack that covers it each winter.
One popular legend dates back to 1748, when a German settler named Henry Fansler led his family westward over the rugged Allegheny Mountains in search of a place to put down roots. According to lore, when Fansler first glimpsed the broad, wild valley unfolding below him, he threw his arms wide and declared, “Behold the Land of Canaan!”
That’s just one story.
Another emerges from the post-Civil War era, when surveyors allegedly referred to the region as the “Canadian Valley” because its harsh climate and boreal ecosystem resembled far northern latitudes. The nickname stuck long enough to show up in early documents.
The valley is, in fact, a remarkable ecological anomaly, one of the coldest valleys of its size in the eastern United States. It’s home to plants and animals typically found in Canada. It’s no wonder early travelers perceived it as foreign and formidable.
Local Native American tribes, particularly the Massawomeck, are said to have avoided descending into the valley, choosing instead to hunt along its perimeter. The cold, wetlands, dense spruce stands, and inhospitable winters made it a place of great respect—and caution.
Whether you prefer the triumphal origin story or the harsher historical interpretation, one thing is clear: Canaan Valley has always been a place of extreme weather, terrain, solitude, and beauty. And in there, something magical has taken root.
The Lodge at White Grass
At the heart of White Grass is its lodge—a humble wooden structure with an old soul.
Bring warm layers, but leave your expectations of glossy ski-resort architecture behind. There’s no pomp here, no glitz or slick marketing. The lodge used to serve as the base for the defunct Weiss Knob downhill ski area, a 1950s-era hill that was shuttered long ago. Today, it remains the warm, beating heart of the touring center.
Step inside, and you immediately sense that White Grass is different.
The air is alive with laughter, the scrape of boots across wood, and the comfortable murmur of people talking like old friends, even if they’ve never met before. A gust of wind rattles the sideboards, making the building creak in that familiar way mountain cabins do. And then comes the smell—woodsmoke, wet wool, and something delicious from the cafe drifting languidly through the rafters.
Everything inside is worn, wooden, and beloved. Hand-painted trail signs hang like keepsakes. Scuffed floors and worn benches tell the story of decades of skiers warming cold legs and swapping trail tales. Community bulletin boards covered with fliers, postcards, and inside jokes give the lodge the feel of someone’s home, because in many ways, it is exactly that.
Chase often says that people call White Grass their “happy place,” and after an hour in the lodge, it’s easy to see why. The staff treats every visitor as a friend—newcomers and regulars alike.
“Making you feel at home is what we do best,” Chase says. And he means it.
Food and drink at White Grass
If the lodge is the soul of White Grass, the White Grass Cafe is its hearth.
Part dining hall, part winter refuge, part community living room, the cafe has no interest in slick presentation. Instead, it oozes character. Fairy lights loop along the top beams, mismatched mugs and plates decorate the counter, and a chalkboard announces the day’s soups in hand-lettered charm.
The food? Unexpectedly fantastic.
Picture steaming mugs of curry coconut soup, tamari-glazed tofu, hearty burritos, giant slices of pie, fresh bread, lentils, stews, and whatever else the kitchen staff (who are as creative as they are generous) have whipped up for the day. The ingredients are simple but intentional, the vibe earthy and comforting.
It’s the kind of food that tastes even better because you’re tired, wind-chapped, and glowing from a challenging morn on skis.
The cafe runs from 9 a.m. to dark most days, and at peak lunch hour, you may find yourself huddled around a communal table among strangers who quickly become friends. Conversations range from trail conditions to weather forecasts to which pie reigns supreme. (Tip: All of them!) Do not leave without picking up a copy of the White Grass Cafe Cookbook, a cult favorite for good reason.
The trails at White Grass
Now we come to the beating, snow-covered heart of the White Grass experience—the trails.
White Grass offers a trail system unlike anything else in the Mid-Atlantic. More than 50 kilometers of groomed routes weave across meadows, through spruce forests, along ridgelines, and up into higher elevations that feel surprisingly alpine for West Virginia. These trails weren't built to intimidate; they were built to mesmerize and relax.
The magic starts near the lodge, where beginner-friendly fields provide plenty of space to get comfortable on your skis. Soft snow, open terrain, and gentle pitches make the early loops perfect for warming up or learning from scratch. You’ll laugh, you’ll fall, you’ll build memories.
As you continue, the terrain quietly begins to rise. What starts as a subtle incline becomes an alluring pull. And then the world begins to open. You find yourself pausing to absorb views that seem too big for the region—broad valley floors, stretches of meadow blanketed in white, and distant ridges rolling across the horizon.
In the forest loops, skiing becomes intimate and quiet. Fir and spruce branches cradle the trail like an evergreen tunnel. The snow muffles your movement so thoroughly that you almost feel like you’re floating. Every so often, the trees part to reveal a hidden meadow, sparkling in the sun and swirling with virgin snow.
And then there is Weiss Knob.
Weiss Knob is the crown jewel, the “mac daddy,” the trail that skiers talk about with reverence. The climb is steady but not punishing, a rhythmic ascent that fills your lungs with frosty air and your spirit with accomplishment.
At the top, you’re rewarded with an unforgettable panorama. Ridge after ridge rolling away into the vast iridescence.
The descent back to the lodge is equally delightful, long and sweeping, and just technical enough to remind you that skiing is equal parts skill and joy.
Here’s the truth: The trails at White Grass aren’t simply routes; they’re experiences. Adventures. Little journeys stitched together by snow and silence.
First timers at White Grass
If you’re brand new to cross-country skiing, or even new to winter recreation altogether, White Grass is the perfect place to start.
Don’t worry about looking graceful. Don’t worry about falling. Falling is part of the experience here, and you’ll see plenty of seasoned skiers take their fair share of tumbles, too. That’s the charm of Nordic skiing: it’s humble, it’s welcoming, and it meets you where you are.
The beginner areas near the lodge are gentle, open, and forgiving. Staff members are happy to answer questions, offer tips, or help you adjust your gear. Most first-timers find that within an hour, they’re gliding along with confidence.
If you’re tempted by the allure of Weiss Knob, save it for another day. Your first experience at White Grass should be about discovery, not ambition. Enjoy the fields and forest loops, stop often to take in the scenery, and allow yourself to be fully immersed in the moment.
This is winter at its best, playful, peaceful, and full of joy.
Beyond the trails at White Grass
While the trails are the star attraction, the surrounding area offers plenty to explore when your legs need a break.
Davis & Thomas
Just down the road are the small mountain towns of Davis and Thomas, two places filled with alluring charm.
Davis is rugged and cozy, with coffeehouses, gear shops, and local eateries. Grab a latte, browse the Appalachian-made goods, or warm up with a hearty bowl of chili.
Thomas, on the other hand, has become something of a creative enclave. Art galleries line the historic main street, and the legendary Purple Fiddle draws musicians from across the country. Imagine sipping a craft beer while listening to the comforting buzz of bluegrass in a century-old building filled with laughter and mountain soul.
Local Breweries
- Stumptown Ales (Davis): Award-winning IPAs and an unpretentious taproom.
- Mountain State Brewing Co. (Thomas): Wood-fired pizzas and a laid-back vibe.
Scenic Drives & Photography
If the weather cooperates, take a slow drive up Dolly Sods Road. The landscape up there feels otherworldly, with windswept pines, high-elevation plains, and views more reminiscent of Wyoming than West Virginia. Snow transforms the area into something truly transcendent. However, ask around before you travel. The road is often closed in winter.
Nearby Recreation
White Grass is your home base, but the region offers a full winter vacation if you want it.
- Blackwater Falls State Park: Iconic winter waterfall views plus a thrilling sled run.
- Canaan Valley Wildlife Refuge: Peaceful snowshoeing and wildlife watching.
- Canaan Valley Resort / Timberline Mountain: Downhill skiing and snow tubing.
Where to stay near White Grass
Lodging options around White Grass range from rustic cabins to comfortable hotels. Whether you want trail-side convenience or a spot in a nearby town, you’ll find something that suits your style.
- Trail Side Lodge: Ski-in/ski-out vibes with cozy accommodations.
- Inn at Canaan: Recently renovated, close to everything.
- Alpine Lodge (Davis): Historic, charming, and right in town.
- Cabins & Condos: Through rental apps, you’ll find everything from romantic cabins to large group rentals. Many include full kitchens, multiple bedrooms, laundry facilities, and fireplaces, making them ideal for longer stays or family trips.
Budget Tips
If you’re traveling on a budget, consider:
- Booking a cabin through rental apps (often cheaper for groups).
- Visiting during midweek for lower lodging rates.
- Pack some meals to cook in your cabin.
- Renting gear from White Grass instead of buying.
- Sticking to beginner trails, which require no additional fees.
Cross-country skiing is already one of the most affordable winter sports, and White Grass is its poster child.
Getting to White Grass
Reaching White Grass is part of the adventure. The closest airport is North Central West Virginia Airport (CKB) in Bridgeport, off I-79, about 66 miles away. Flights can be limited, but rental cars are available at the terminal. From there, the drive winds through rural mountain roads and scenic vistas. In winter, plan for extra time, and choose a vehicle suited for snow.
Most visitors from the D.C. area arrive via I-81 and US-48, a fast and surprisingly beautiful route into the highlands. From Pittsburgh, the drive cuts through rolling mountains, rivers, and forested valleys. Either way, your reward is the same: arrival in a place that feels worlds away.
Lasting Memories
White Grass isn’t just a place to put skis to snow, it’s a place to feel winter again.
It’s a reminder that cold-weather adventures don’t need high-speed lifts, luxury chalets, or neon-lit resort villages. They just need fresh snow, good people, hearty food, and the kind of landscape that stays with you long after you’ve driven home.
White Grass is simple. It is soulful. And it is profoundly human.
Once you’ve skied here, through the quiet forests, across the bright meadows, up the long ridge toward Weiss Knob, you’ll understand why this place has a loyal following that borders on reverence.
You leave with rosy cheeks, tired legs, a full belly, and a sense that winter isn’t harsh. It’s generous. It gives beauty. It gives challenge. It gives silence. And if you’re lucky enough to find your way to White Grass, it gives memories that last far beyond the snowmelt.
For more information on visiting the Canaan Valley and surrounding Tucker County, visit GetTuckered.com.
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