WVU experts say layering, not bulky clothing, keeps you warmer in winter

MORGANTOWN, W.Va. — As temperatures drop across West Virginia, many people are pulling wool long johns from storage or shopping for high-tech thermal gear designed to keep winter at bay.

But West Virginia University fashion and merchandising experts in Morgantown say staying warm isn’t just about piling on thick layers. It’s about layering smartly.

Angela Uriyo, assistant professor of fashion design and merchandising in the university’s College of Media and Creative Arts, said the key to cold-weather comfort is a simple three-layer system that allows the body to regulate its temperature.

“Something as simple as layering your clothing can make the difference between being toasty or miserable in cold weather,” Uriyo said. “The ability to add and remove garment layers is what helps us regulate our body temperatures and remain comfortable.”

How the Three-Layer System Regulates Body Temperature

Uriyo explained that the system begins with a snug-fitting base layer designed to draw moisture away from the skin. A middle layer provides insulation by trapping warm air close to the body, while an outer layer shields against wind and precipitation while still allowing moisture to escape.

“If your outer layer is waterproof, it is most likely windproof,” she said, noting that breathability remains essential to prevent sweat from building up and causing chill.

The concept of layering is far from new. Uriyo said humans have relied on variations of the same approach for thousands of years.

“For millennia, animal coats kept humans warm in cold temperatures,” she said, pointing to the discovery of “Ötzi the Iceman” in the Alps in 1991. The 5,000-year-old mummy was found wearing garments made of animal hides and grasses that likely offered both insulation and protection from moisture.

The Romans and the Vikings relied heavily on layered clothing to survive harsh winters. “The lessons are the same for us as they were for the Romans and Vikings,” Uriyo said. “Layer up, keep your layers dry and loose enough to trap air, and block the wind.”

Wool, Synthetics, and the Science of Staying Warm

Debanjan Das, associate professor of fashion design and merchandising, said one of the most enduring winter materials, wool, remains highly effective even by modern standards.

“Wool is the original performance fabric,” Das said. “It provides exceptional insulation, even when wet, and its microscopic structure allows it to absorb moisture without feeling damp.”

Das explained that wool fibers can absorb up to 30 percent of their weight in moisture while still retaining warmth. Natural lanolin oils help repel light rain, and the fiber’s hygroscopic properties release small amounts of heat as moisture is absorbed, helping maintain body temperature as the fabric dries.

“These qualities made wool the backbone of outdoor apparel for centuries,” Das said, from military uniforms in World War II to gear worn by hunters and mountaineers.

By the mid-20th century, however, scientists began developing synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic to replicate or improve on the performance of natural materials. Das said the invention of Gore-Tex in 1976 marked a breakthrough in outerwear.

“With more than 9 billion pores per square inch, it allowed vapor to escape while keeping wind and rain out,” he said. “That revolutionized outerwear design.”

Advances in the 1990s and 2000s further refined modern layering systems, making winter clothing lighter, less bulky, and more breathable while maintaining the same warmth.

Environmental Impacts of Traditional and Modern Winter Fabrics

While both traditional and modern fabrics rely on the same basic principles, insulation, moisture management, and wind resistance, Das said their environmental impacts vary widely.

“Traditional materials like wool, fur, and leather are renewable and biodegradable, but they raise concerns related to animal welfare, land use, and methane emissions,” he said.

“Synthetic materials offer durability and performance, but they are derived from petrochemicals and contribute to microplastic pollution and long-term waste.”

Today, Das said, the apparel industry is increasingly focused on sustainable solutions that combine performance with environmental responsibility. These include recycled polyester, bio-based nylon, responsibly sourced wool, and regenerative agricultural practices.

For consumers, the message from Das and Uriyo about staying warm in winter is to select appropriate materials, layer effectively, and keep the body dry, insulated, and protected from the wind. It’s not about wearing the thickest coat possible.